Steps to Production Series - Prototyping

What is prototyping and why is it important to your line development? This blog will discuss what you should expect in a prototype and why it’s essential to perfecting your line.

Developing a prototype before going directly to sample making, while it will add time to your timeline, can end up saving you money in the long term. You can also save money by not wasting your sample fabric by using a less expensive fabric to see fit and details. Muslin is a great example of this. Your first fitting, will result in some form of alteration, due to the nature of going from a 2D sketch to a 3D form. 

I always take the time to explain what a prototype is to my clients before the first fitting. A first prototype may be ill-fitting, with unfinished edges, and in a cost effective fabric like muslin. It adds cost to finish edges perfectly, and fitting will take a couple of tries to perfect. Set your expectations accordingly with your first prototype. 

Prototypes do not have full linings, button holes, seam finishes and/or hem completion work. Before spending the time on these details, it is better to check the fit and overall style of your garment which is what a prototype achieves. By putting a prototype on the body, you can easily see if the hem is hitting where you want. The prototyping process is important to note as many imperfections you see for the production process. A prototype often has unfinished edges to save cost and to confirm where you would like the length to hit. Spending money on finishes for a first fitting will only add to your overall cost.

A prototype is often made out of a muslin if you are creating woven garments. The word “muslin” is even used interchangeably with the word “prototype” because this is the most common fabric protos are made out of. It’s only a few dollars per yard and has the same structure as many woven fabrics on the market. A muslin fabric is normally a greige good, in a raw cream color. If you are creating silk garments, I would recommend using a less expensive fabric option that hangs similarly to silk (like a rayon lining) as muslin can be quite stiff. The only exception to using the actual fabric that is planned for production is when you are working in knit fabrics. All knit fabrics stretch differently and stretch affects the fit and pattern. If you develop your knit prototype out of one fabric and then later change that knit fabric for the sample, the fit may change. 

Because the prototype is unfinished, it takes less time to create than the later samples. This is an effective way to ensure your 2D sketch is now converted into your 3D proto. You should expect alterations; even the best pattern makers on the planet do a fitting prior to jumping to a sample and normally have alterations to do. So just because you have tweaks to your proto doesn’t mean you’ve chosen the wrong pattern maker. This is completely normal and to be expected. In fact, depending on what you are developing, doing two rounds of prototypes might be needed to nail your fit and style details before the final sample is made. Don’t get frustrated and plan your time line accordingly so this step can be taken and planned for.

Interested in hiring us for patterns and samples? V.mora offers a wide range of Pattern and Sample Making services. From the initial sketch to the first sample: we create patterns and samples, correct the fit, adjust design details and make improvements, then ensure that patterns are production-ready by digitizing and grading them to specific sizes. V.Mora ensures a perfect production-ready sample. Our team can help you with all the steps to get your product through development in as little as three months.

Steps for the Product Development

• Sourcing 

• Technical sketches 

• Pattern Making

• Prototype making 

• Sample Making

• Fittings 

• Digitizing and Grading

• Marker Making

• Manufacturing

For product development services, please email vmorainquiry@vmora.com