Steps to Production Series - Hiring a Fit Model
Hiring the correct fit model is also an essential part of ensuring proper fit for your entire line. In this blog post, I will run you through what to look for when booking a model and standard practices in the industry.
Now that you have a prototype it’s time to perform a fitting. I have a lot of clients that think they will be their own fit model as it is natural to want your brand to fit you perfectly. However, I try to steer people away from this unless you are the exact measurements of your base size and of average height. An average height for men is around 5’10” and women 5”5” (note: if you are creating a petite or tall line your model needs to be an average height for this particular market)
And I mean it when I say exact! If your model is bustier than your size chart calls for, your entire line will be for bustier women. If this is your strategy, great, if it’s not then your line will be off. The base size is what all your other sizes stem from so it’s important you take the time and make this perfect.
To find a fit model, we use an agency in New York City called TRUE Model Management and have been a client of theirs for years. Hiring a fit model can be expensive as they have a minimum time and hourly rate that can be $250/hour for an experienced fit model. The cost is definitely worth it! With professional models you know what you are going to get, and they are expected to be the exact measurements of their comp card. An experienced fit model can provide valuable feedback on fit and how garments feel, using their experience from fit modeling for many other lines. They will know where a standard sleeve length and hem hit on their bodies.
Many clients also use friends, their kids, or non-professional models for their fittings. This can work, however it is very important to measure them and be sure they will be a perfect fit for your prototype. Also to note, when fitting babies or children you will have to re-measure them between fittings as they can grow fast and might have different measurements on a second or third fitting.
Whether you use a professional model or not, you should have a casting. A modeling agency will do what they call a “go see,” where you are able to measure the model, take a snap shot but can not ask them to change. Once you ask them to change, it’s a fitting and you will be billed. It’s better to do a casting than to have a model show up day of and not be the correct measurements for what you are needing.
Once you have found a model, you’ll need to book them for your fitting. This will have to be arranged with your pattern maker as it’s best they are present for the fitting to fully understand the alterations needed. Normally an agency has a 24 hour cancellation policy so you’ll want to be 100% sure that the prototype will be done in time to avoid having to pay the agency fee and not be able to do the fitting.
Also to note, you’ll want to book the same fit model for both the multiple prototype fittings as well as the sample fitting. Many of my clients use the same fit models for each season, year after year! So building a relationship with an agency and model can help in the long run of your brand.
Next week we will be talking about fittings, so stay posted as I run you through the next steps!
Interested in hiring us for patterns and samples? V.mora offers a wide range of Pattern and Sample Making services. From the initial sketch to the first sample: we create patterns and samples, correct the fit, adjust design details and make improvements, then ensure that patterns are production-ready by digitizing and grading them to specific sizes. V.Mora ensures a perfect production-ready sample. Our team can help you with all the steps to get your product through development in as little as three months.
Steps for the Product Development
Sourcing
Technical sketches
Pattern Making
Prototype making
Sample Making
Fittings
Digitizing and Grading
Marker Making
Manufacturing
For product development services, please email vmorainquiry@vmora.com