It is time for Final Samples! In this post, I am going to go over why you should not skip the stage of final samples and what needs to be included in your final sample.

While this step may be tempting to skip, it is important to take the time to have a perfect sample in hand before your production. This will act as your “sew-by” sample on the production floor. A “sew-by” sample is a sample that shows exactly how the garment is cut, sewn, and finished. If you have seen a few prototypes or pre-samples and they are “pretty close” to perfect, you might think it’s ok to skip. You may think about the time and money you can save if you don't fix those minor details and move straight to production, but you are not considering the bigger picture. In the bigger picture, if your sample is not perfect, you run the risk that your production garments won't be perfect either.

So, what does “Perfect'' sew-by sample mean exactly? It means your linings are complete, label placements are correct, and stitching is exactly what you would want your production to be. While the factory may have a perfect tech pack, having a perfect “sew-by” sample will help ensure a perfect production. In my next blog, we dive deeper into tech packs. 

Fit also matters for your “sew-by” sample. Your sample should be your base size. A base size is the size you chose to base your garments on and also the size of the fit model you had. The patterns based on this “sew-by” sample and size will be graded into all your other sizes. If your base size was tight in the bust, ALL your sizes will then be tight in the bust. It is worth it to take the needed time to fit the sample just so. “Sew-by” samples take everything from fit to finishes into consideration. 

If you are considering offshore production, a perfect “sew-by” sample is vital. When we are working with clients and the production is local, we are often at the factories daily, watching the production come together, and catching any mistakes before they become a huge problem. If you are producing offshore, we do not have this luxury, and the sample speaks for itself. My friend, Jane Hamil of ​​https://fashionbrainacademy.com/, once told me a story how she pinned a post-it note to a hem that said “make 2” shorter” and all of her production came back with a post it note pinned to the garments that read “make 2” shorter”. Can you believe it?!? I have also heard a story of a garment that had a cigarette burn in it and how did the production come back? With cigarette burns in the exact spot of the sample! While offshore is really great at replicating a sample this can also work against you if that sample is not perfect. 

During production, the sample should be hanging in front of the sewers for all to see. If you are working locally and you stop by the factory while your product is on the line, be sure this sample is visible to the sewers. While a tech pack is important and reads all the details of your garment, normally that is held by the floor manager, not passed along to the sewers. Because manufacturing is a diverse industry, there is often a language barrier which makes having the visual guidance of a sew-by sample crucial to make your production. 

Your perfect sew-by sample is also used to finalize your tech packs, pull specs from, and is the basis of all the following steps. Want to make sure your samples are produced beautifully? V.Mora can help you streamline your production. Please email to inquire!

Steps for the Product Development

• Sourcing 

• Technical sketches 

• Pattern Making

• Prototype making 

• Sample Making

• Fittings 

• Digitizing and Grading

• Marker Making

• Manufacturing

For product development services, please email vmorainquiry@vmora.com